XNL R36 ModChip
The XNL R36 ModChip is a module which is intended to be build into the R36H Retro Console so that you have Wifi build-into the R36 (with the option to include an physical on/off switch) while still being able to use the external USB port at the same time (for example for a USB controller, USB stick etc). It also enables you install a secondary USB module if desired for personal experiments (for example Bluetooth*), and it enables you to use the onboard UART of the R36 for development and/or hacking purposes.
*Bluetooth is not officially supported and neither do I provide assistance in setting it up, but more about this in the documentation (PDF in the download).
This module is officially only intended to be used with the R36H, but could also be installed in an R36S. However, installing it in an R36S requires significant more expertise from the modder installing it and it also introduces significantly more risk in permanently damaging the board if you don’t know what you’re doing. This is also the reason why the R36S isn’t officially ‘supported by this module’!
Download Size: 22MB
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Information
The XNL R36 ModChip is a module which is intended to be build into the R36H Retro Console (running on ArkOS) so that you have WiFi build-into the R36 (with the option to include an physical on/off switch) while still being able to use the external USB port at the same time (for example for a USB controller, USB stick etc). It also enables you install a secondary USB module if desired for personal experiments (for example Bluetooth), and it also enables you to use the onboard UART of the R36 via a 2.5mm TRS Jack plug for development and/or “hacking” purposes.
NOTE: I do mention Bluetooth here as example for the secondary module you could install. But I personally do NOT offer any support for getting Bluetooth to work properly, it’s just an example. You could for example also use this (internal) “USB Module Port” for something like additional internal storage (an build-in USB stick), or a build-in USB Wireless Keyboard Dongle etc.
What is this
This is basically a DIY Module PCB (Printed Circuit Board), which you can download the files for, order the Circuit board from a PCB Manufacturer (like listed on the PCB Order Instructions tab), order the parts (listed in the Bill Of Materials tab) and then once you’ve received everything (the board, components and USB WiFi Dongle) you can solder this module (“put it together”) or ask a friend who can do this for you😊. Then this module can be build into the R36H so that you always have WiFi available in our R36H while also keeping the normal USB port available at the same time.
What Skill Level Is Required
For most part the (electronics and soldering) skills required to make the XNL R36 ModChip are moderate; You do need to be able to solder SMD/SMT components (0805 being the smallest components I’ve used), and same goes for hooking up the XNL R36 ModChip to the R36 mainboard. However! It also involves cutting two traces on the R36H (main)board, which can be a bit more risky if you’re new to this. So please keep this in mind.
If you are absolutely new to soldering, then this mod might (unfortunately) not be for you (yet) though. Reason I’m explicitly stating this (while I would usually encourage others to try to learn as much as possible, including soldering), is that I’ve noticed that the R36 related contend/publications (obviously) also reach another (more broader) audience, and not just the “DIY People”. And I don’t want those to be disappointed when they discover it’s “much more effort” than “just plugging in” a USB plug. You can consider this about the same as installing a ModChip in the older consoles: It does require (basic) soldering skills and also includes the same risk of breaking your console permanently if done incorrectly. Only difference with my ModChip is that mine doesn’t enable “additional illegal use” of content/games etc, mine just adds hardware functionality 😊.
Is the R36S also supported (or other R36H like consoles?)
Yes and no. Very simple answer would be nope, sorry. But this is a bit more nuanced though. This module could basically be build into any (handheld or otherwise) console, device etc of which you are able to tap-into or take-over a USB port. So that in theory also includes the R36S, RG351MP or even an Xbox, Playstation etc. HOWEVER: Depending on the operating system the device is running on the USB HUB chip might or might not be recognized and the same goes for the installed (WiFi) modules onto my ModChip. The main reason however I didn’t list the R36S as being supported (and even actively DISCOURAGE ‘electronics newcomers’ to install my module in an R36S) is that it is significantly more difficult to install in an R36S. Simply because the pad we need to ‘tap-into’ aren’t present as they are in the R36H, and the same goes for the traces which have to be cut (for the external USB port to remain functional).
Are there downsides/negative effects when installing the XNL R36 ModChip into my R36H?
Only one if you care about that and actually use it: You will lose the OTG function of the USB port (or more precise: the Gadget Mode), so this means you can’t use the R36H as USB Cardreader anymore (IF your ArkOS installation supports it), tethering with your mobile phone over USB-C might become a problem (Which doesn’t matter when you alreadyt have WiFi build-in in my opinion😉). So YES: It does break the OTG functionality IF you actually use or need that. I personally do not need it, nor ever needed it, so I don’t care about that part. But that is “the sacrifice” you have to make when installing the XNL R36 ModChip😉.
Is there a step-by-step guide on how to build and install this XNL R36 ModChip?
Yup, definitely😊! Both actually, I’ve made YouTube video which you can see here, and in the download I’ve also included an elaborate PDF (datasheet/manual) with step-by-step instructions for most of the installation, including the pin-outs, which pads/wires to connect to what etc etc😊.
Do you sell these modules or do you offer a ‘build-in service’?
Nope, I don’t sorry. And neither do I have ANY plans of doing so. I design (most of) my projects as DIY/Open-source projects so everyone can benefit from them for free by downloading them and then making them themselves. And this is just one of those DIY projects😊.
Can you add this or that feature/change this thing…. etc etc…
Nope sorry, I won’t. Many of my projects are made/designed because I wanted or needed to solve a problem I had myself, and then I share those projects when I’m at the ‘finished stage’. And you can (often not always) consider those projects as “one-off’s”, which means I made it, tested it, published it and then ‘checked it off’. This does NOT mean those project are abandoned, it just means I don’t want to be tied to a project which I personally already considered as finished for years to come. I rather work on new projects and releases, and if I would keep adding features, offering support (on DIY projects) etc etc, then I would basically not have any time left to work on my other stuff. Please do keep in mind that most projects are a ‘one man’s job’ and thus time is very very limited😊.
Warning: NO Support
It might sound a bit harsh, but I give absolutely no support or 'help' for this DIY Project. I make a lot of projects, of which most are just because I want to make something, I need something or need to solve a problem I personally have, and then later decide to make it so that it can be shared publicly. In my personal opinion, I already put A LOT more effort in making my projects sharable then lots of other YouTuber's for example. I often make VERY elaborate PDF's and/or blog-posts with custom drawn graphics to ensure that it's as clear as possible to understand and follow, tutorial video's on how to use or make my projects etc. And those (especially the documentation, extensive comments in my source-codes (if applicable) already cost A LOT of time to do, and that's basically what you will have to do with. My projects are intended as Do It Yourself, and the reason I'm sharing them (for free) is so that you can experiment with them yourself, benefit from my projects in your daily life, and possibly even learn from them. Those three are my main reason to share. I often mention this, and will mention it again: I do not make project for the content, I make content out of my projects. This is just a subtle difference when put to words, but the drive behind the projects is very different. At the moment I (finally) release a project, I often consider it 'done' (unless it's an ongoing active thing and thus otherwise stated) and I have moved on to the next one already. Chances are that when a project video finally is finished and released, that I have already been using that project for weeks if not months. And if I would have to start every single project full-time like I'm a corporate entity, then I just would not have enough time anymore to work on anything else. I hope and kinda expect that most will understand and respect this though😊. So It's NOT about me not wanting to help, but it's just the lack of hours in a day to be able to 😉😊
License
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IMPORTANT
Do note that all sections/'chapters' bellow constitute the entire license and that they are 'interconnected'. This for example means that if there is a section about Closed Source/Binaries License, that this doesn't mean that the rest of the license doesn't to those binaries. It just means that that section is specifically aimed at those files, while the rest of the license (where applicable) is also 'in effect' for those binaries.
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Because we think that the "Standard No Commercial Use Allowed Clause" can be a bit vague or even a pitfall in some cases, we've decided to exclude certain situations from our 'Commercial Use Not Allowed Clause', hoping that it will be a bit easier for people to understand what they can and can't do with the projects, products, files, models etc which are tied to our "Commercial Use Not Allowed Clause"
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Logo & Branding Copyright
XNL Future Technologies™, XNL TV™, XEWA™, TeamXNL™, System166™, The XNL Ft logo, The XNL Future Technologies logo, The XNL TV logo, The E-Series "Flamingo Logo", The XNL E-Academy Logo, The Overkill Edition Logo, The XEWA logo, The System166 Logo, The Sophie The Pigeon 8-Bit logo and others are trademarks or registered trademarks of XNL Future Technologies in The Netherlands and other countries. Other terms, project, product or brand-names and/or logo's may be trademarks of others.
XNL Future Technologies is not associated and does not claim to be associated with any company or product that might have been mentioned in their documentation unless explicitly stated otherwise.
Legal & Disclaimer(s)
SIMPLIFIED DISCLAIMER:
The use of our projects, products, schematics or other files is at your own responsibility and they are provided “AS-IS”, without ANY WARRANTY. Use of the content on or from our website(s) is 100% at your own risk. Please realize that most of the 'stuff' that we offer on our website is intended for the enthusiasts, and thus it is designed/meant to be adapted, expanded or adjusted for use in 'larger' projects. Or that it is meant as a basic guideline to get started on a project of your own. Some products that we used (or have used) internally in our company will be shared with the public so that others can enjoy these modules or products also. For all these projects, product, files etc goes: USE AT OWN RISK! Some projects or products that we use internally do not have build in security measures (like reverse polarity protection for example!), this is to keep the costs at internal (test) stages as low as possible or due to the fact that the product is intended to be used in only one particular way! Keep this in mind when using, building or even buying these projects or products. If you're not sure what you're doing or if you don't trust a certain product, schematic, sample or anything else: USE YOUR INSTINCT and DO NOT CONTINUE, If you DO want to continue working on or with the project, product, source-code, sample, printed circuit board, model, schematic etc: Again: AT YOUR OWN RISK. The same goes for using our software (either closed source or other included binaries): USE A YOUR OWN RISK.
OFFICIAL DISCLAIMER:
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PCB Order Instructions
This section explains the (recommended) ordering process and settings (at the PCB manufacturer) to order our circuit boards using our provided 'ready-to-use' Gerber (zip) files. We will first give a basic overview for the recommended PCB Manufacturer settings, so that the more experianced users can instantly find what they need, and after this 'settings overview' we will explain more in-depth how you can order our printed circuit boards (PCB's) using the files you can download for our projects, products and packages.
NOTE: The clickable links to JLCPCB are referral links, more information about this at the bottom of the page.
Recommended PCB Ordering Settings (Material, layers etc)
All our boards (unless otherwise stated) are designed for and should be ordered with the following settings:
(Base) Material: FR4
Layers: 2 Layer / Double-sided
PCB Thickness: 1.6mm
PCB Color: Choose whatever you like or stick to the 'official project/product color' 🙂
Outer Copper Weight: Use default of the website you're ordering (often 1oz).
When ordering from JLCPCB and using the zip file which has (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in it's name:
Remove Order Number: Click on [Specify a location]
How to use our files/downloads to order the circuit boards
To order the printed circuit board(s) included in this project, product or package you will first need to download and extract this project or product.
Our project and product folders will often contain several folders/directories, of which one of them should have a name similar to 'Gerber Files (For Ordering-Production)'. If the downloaded project or product only contains one printed circuit board (PCB) then you will often find two archives (zip files) within this folder.
One of these archives will have (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in it's name and the other won't, for example:
ProjectXNL.zip
ProjectXNL (JLCJLCJLCJLC).zip
NOTE: You will only need to use one of these files when ordering, not both. So please read along to find out how this works 🙂
My 'Gerber Files Folder' contains even more folders
If this is the case it just means that the project, product or package you have downloaded consists out of multiple circuit boards (or options/variations you can choose from), you should consult the documentation (or included text file(s) in these folders) of your project, product or package to find out which folder (or PCB's) you will need. Inside each folder for the different Printed Circuit Boards in the project, product or package we will still use the same 'file structure' where there will be two files per PCB (one having '(JLCJLCJLCJLC)' in it's name and the other doesn't).
My Gerber Files Folder only contains one zip file (per part/option)!
This is also a possibility, this just means that we did not created an additional 'Gerber file-set' with PCB's which have JLCJLCJLCJLC on them. We often choose to do this for boards which would be to small to actually place such texts, we will then just let it be up to JLCPB to place the production/batch numbers on them. So if there aren't additional zip files which have (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in their filename(s), then you should just use the zip file(s) which is present in the folder(s).
File difference explanation
- The one which has "(JLCJLCJLCJLC)" in it's file name will have JLCJLCJLCJLC printed on the circuit board.
- The one which does not have "(JLCJLCJLCJLC)" in it's name will not have JLCJLCJLCJLC printed on the circuit board.
Ordering anywhere else than JLCPCB
When you want to order anywhere else than on JLCPCB.com you should always just use the zip file which does not have (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in it's filename.
What does this JLCJLCJLCJLC on the PCB mean?
Well this 'piece of text' tells JLCPCB where they can/should place their (internal) manufacturing/production/batch numbers, which they use for handling your order internally. JLCPCB offers a free service where circuit board designers can specify where JLCPCB can place their 'internal batch/production numbers', this prevents issues where they would for example (accidentally) place these production/batch numbers on an ugly location and thus possibly ruin your 'precious silkscreen artwork' 🙂
Ordering from JLCPCB
When you do want to order at JLCPCB.com you have two options to choose from:
- Pay a bit extra on your order (currently around $1.54) and have JLCPCB remove their manufacturing/production code completely, in which case you should use the file which does not have (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in it's filename.
- Or instead use the file which does have (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in it's filename, in which JLCPCB will use the by us specified location to place the manufacturing/production/batch number(s). We will always (try to) place this text in the least noticeable location or where it would not 'mess' with the rest of our silkscreen design. To be extra clear: When using this option you will have a small 'batch number' printed on the location of your PCB's where we had placed the "JLCJLCJLCJLC marker", but it will save you a bit of money on your order.
IMPORTANT:
If you are ordering from JLCPCB and you are using the zip file which has (JLCJLCJLCJLC) in it's name, then you have to make sure that you search for the 'Remove Order Number' option when ordering your PCB and then select [Specify a location] at this option. Otherwise you might still end up with an 'factory batch number' on your PCB AND have the 'text' JLCJLCJLCJLC printed on it. So make sure that you select [Specify a location]
Price estimate at JLCPCB
Currently (at the time of writing this 'pre-configured order manual template') prices at JLCPCB per PCB Design are around 2$ to $4 if the board is 100x100mm or less, which will get you 5 copies of the board itself for this price. And if you order 10 of the same board you will often just have to pay $5 (so just $1 more for 5 extra boards). We use JLCPCB for nearly all our projects and products and we are very satisfied with their quality and production times. Ordering from JLCPCB is as simple as going to JLCPCB.com then 'drag-and-drop' your zip file (with the Gerber files) onto the page.
NOTE: The clickable links to JLCPCB in this section are referral links
PCB Sponsor Update/Referal Link Information:
Since July 2024 JLCPCB is now sponsoring my projects, platform and YouTube channel, I'm very grateful for JLCPCB offering to sponsor me (they actually contacted me, I did not contacted them). Despite the fact that they are now sponsoring my/our projects, my opinion about them remains unchanged and will also state that my recommendation to use JLCPCB is 100% my own. If I would not have used (and loved) their service that much myself already I would not have accepted their offer either. The reason I accepted their sponsor offer is because I had already been using them for many years with great satisfaction.
If you click on the referral link I will NOT be able to see that you have clicked it (I will not get any user or order details from them), and neither would you pay more when using their link for example. Using the referal link does however support my projects, content and platform 🙂
You can also use JLCPCB for FR-4 boards up to 20 layers, Flex pcb's and assembly of your PCB's (meaning they will put the components on them for you, I personally haven't used the latter (yet) though).
Bill Of Materials
Bellow you’ll find the components you need to build the XNL R36 ModChip.
Required Parts
1x XNL R36 ModChip Board (File to order them is included in the download)
3x 0805 100nF Ceramic Capacitor
2x 0805 10uF Ceramic Capacitor
1x SLA2.1A 4-Port USB HUB IC (SOP-16)
1x USB WiFi Dongle (Check this page for the recommended type)
Approximately 1M wire (28AWG which is basically an old IDE cable/flatcable)
Optional Components (Check Datasheet PDF for detailed information though)
1x 0805 (Blue) LED (Used as Wifi On Status LED)
1x 0805 1K Resistor (Used in combination with the LED)
1x PJ-242 2.5mm Connector (Only used if you want access to the UART port/Serial Console!)
1 or 2 Mini Slide Switch 3 pin (1P2T) which can be used as power switch for the Wifi module
1x 100uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor (Optional but highly recommended)
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